|89||View from the Cellar||The 2020 Tinto “Las Covitalas” is made entirely from Garnacha, grown in organically certified (and now biodynamically) farmed vineyards planted on primarily stony, clay and limestone soils. The wine is fermented with indigenous yeasts with thirty percent whole clusters, with half the wine undergoing malo in older French casks and then aged for six months in three and four year –old barrels. It is bottled without fining or filtration and the 2020 version comes in at 14.5 percent octane. It offers up a deep and ripe nose of black raspberries, fruitcake, pepper, roasted game and garrigue. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with firm tannins and good focus and grip on the long and gently warm finish. This has a ton of personality for its very reasonable price point ($18 in the US), but will need a bit of bottle age to soften up its tannins before drinking. 2027-2050.
John Gilman - Issue #98 March/April 2022