|93||View from the Cellar||Raul Pérez is the winemaker at Pricum, and his 2010 old vine Preito Picudo (an indigenous grape to the region with which I am not overly familiar), made from sixty to one hundred year-old vines and fermented and aged in foudre is a fine and quite refined bottle. The octane here is 13.5 percent, and the low yields of these old vines (ten hectoliters per hectare!) gives the wine lovely intensity of flavor on the palate, as well as a refined and impressively complex nose of cassis, a dollop of roasted game, espresso, chicory, a touch of currant leaf, dark soil tones, a discreet framing of cedar and a topnote of garrigue. On the palate the wine is fullbodied, complex and very transparent, with fine focus and grip, a good core and excellent length and grip on the still youthful, moderately chewy finish. This is terrific wine, which is certainly approachable today, but would be even better once it has had a few years in the cellar to shed a bit of its tannin. 2020-2045+.|
|92||Vinous Media||Inky ruby. Pungent dark berries, candied violet and a hint of licorice on the highly perfumed, mineral-accented nose. Sweet and penetrating, offering intense black raspberry and cherry liqueur flavors that unfold and pick up a smoky element with air. Powerful yet graceful and precise, showing closing thrust and silky, even tannins that build slowly and lend shape and gentle grip. (Made with 30% whole clusters and fermented in open-top oak vats, with malo-lactic fermentation and 14 months of aging in new and used French oak barrels.)
Spain’s Northern Regions Keep it Cool – March 2019
|89||The Wine Advocate||The 2010 Pricum Prieto Picudo fermented in oak foudre and matured in French barrels for 14 months. This 2010 feels initially fresher than the 2009, less ripe and extracted, but where the 2009 grows in the glass this one seems to fade slowly away. The tannins are very fine and the flavors are subtle with good acidity, but there's not much complexity. 18,579 bottles. Margón is the contraction of Martínez and González, the names of the families that created the winery in Pajares de los Oteros in 2007. They hired Raúl Pérez for technical advice to create a range of wines from old vines of Prieto Picudo, the red grape from León and the white Albarín. They own 30 hectares of vineyards, which are fermented in 5,000-liter French oak vats to produce around 60,000 bottles of wine per year.
Issue #213, February 2015
|89||Wine Spectator||This balanced red has firm yet gentle tannins and balsamic acidity supporting plum, tobacco and tea flavors. Maturing, with savory notes, but remains fresh. Drink now through 2020.|