|93||View from the Cellar||The 2018 Malvasia from Bodegas y Viñedos San Román is produced from sixty year-old vines, which are farmed organically and are ungrafted, as the soils in the El Pinar vineyard are quite sandy. The wine is barrel-fermented with indigenous yeasts in five hundred liter casks and aged for ten months prior to bottling. The 2018 comes in nicely balanced at thirteen percent octane and offers up a nascently complex bouquet of lemon, green olive, tart pear, a lovely base of soil and a topnote of lemongrass. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with great focus and grip, excellent backend mineral drive and a long, zesty, bone-dry and very serious finish. This is still a young wine and it will very clearly improve with further bottle age, though it is already very easy to drink! It is the first white wine I can ever recall tasting from Toro and it is far beyond my expectations! 2020-2035+.
Issue #86 - March/April 2020
|93||Vinous Media||Light, bright yellow. Highly perfumed, mineral-accented aromas of white peach, pear, tangerine and smoky lees, plus a bright floral overtone. Juicy and densely packed on the palate, conveying richness as well as vivacity to the mineral-laced orchard and pit fruit flavors, which pick up an orange zest nuance with air. Shows impressive power and sharp delineation on a long, penetrating finish that leaves hints of buttered toast and citrus pith behind. 2023- 2033
Josh Raynolds - February 2021
|92||The Wine Advocate||The second vintage of the white from Toro is the 2018 Malvasía, produced with Doña Blanca grapes, which are known locally as Malvasía Castellana, a more austere grape that shows more the soil than the variety. This matures in 500-liter oak, and it goes unnoticeable. Bottled without malolactic, it felt a little reductive and austere at first. It's a grape that shows vibrant acidity and minerality. This is delicious now but has the balance and stuffing to develop in bottle. 2,400 bottles were filled in July 2019.
The García family from Mauro has also started converting their vineyards to biodynamic, a fascinating change, but a normal move after their organic work.
|94||View from the Cellar||This is the only white wine that I can recall every tasting from Toro, and I was very happy to see that the 2019 version was a superb follow-up to the exceptional 2018 vintage of this cuvee. As I mentioned last year, this wine is made from sixty year-old Malvasia vines grown in the organically-farmed El Pinar vineyard; the wine is fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged for ten months in French demi-muids prior to bottling. The 2019 comes in at 13.5 percent octane and delivers a superb bouquet of breadfruit, lemon peel, a touch of green olive, salty soil tones, wild fennel and a topnote of menthol. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, deep and complex, with a superb core, lovely soil signature and grip, good acids and a very long, beautifully balanced and classy finish. 2021-2035.
John Gilman - Issue #91 / February 2021
|93||The Wine Advocate||2019 was a low-yielding vintage, and the 2019 Malvasía is the third vintage of this white from San Román that is produced with Malvasía Castellana grapes, which are not as aromatic as other Malvasía varieties. It comes from a 60-year-old organically farmed vineyard called El Pinar on sandy soils where they also apply biodynamics. It fermented in 500-liter oak barrels, where the wine matured for 10 months with two bâtonnages per month. It has moderate alcohol and a very healthy pH. It's not a very floral variety and is more like the Doña Blanca, somewhat austere and shows the soils where it's planted. 2019 follows the line of 2015, with a little more freshness, and the wine is ripe but without excess. It has some aromas of dried herbs and spices and is clean and more expressive and open than the previous years, approachable but serious. It has a harmonious palate with integrated oak and with a salty touch on the finish. It's very balanced and elegant, subtle rather than exuberant. 2,400 bottles were filled in
July 2020. 2021-2025.
Luis Gutiérrez - Issue #255 June 2021