|90||View from the Cellar||The wine is raised entirely in older barrels and offers up a fine bouquet of cassis, cigar ash, a touch of coffee grounds, garrigue, a bit of roasted meats and a gentle autumnal topnote that recalls Alicante Bouschet. On the palate the wine is deep, fullbodied and complex, with a fine core, moderate, well-integrated tannins and excellent focus and grip on the long and impressive finish. To my palate, this is even more complex than the 2014 and is an astonishing value at twelve dollars a bottle here in the states! 2017-2030+.|
|89||Vinous Media||(fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged for four months in neutral French and American oak barrels) Lurid ruby. Fresh cherry and dark berries on the fragrant nose and in the mouth. Silky and broad, showing good depth and a suggestion of peppery spices on the back half. Finishes with smooth tannins, good length and lingering floral and blackberry qualities.|
|91||View from the Cellar||The 2016 Sinfonía” Bodegas Abanico is yet again a ringing success (I was very impressed with both the 2014 and 2015 versions) and is about as fine a substitute for the great old wines that used to hail from Ribera del Duero in the 1980s as I can think of today. The bouquet jumps from the glass in a classic combination of plums, black cherries, lovely spice tones, a nice touch of meatiness, sandy soil tones, cigar smoke and just a bit of coconutty oak influence in the upper register. On the palate the wine is ripe, full-bodied and impeccably balanced, with a good core of fruit, fine soil signature, ripe, suave tannins, good acids and excellent focus and grip on the complex finish. As I mentioned last year, this wine is crafted from forty-plus year-old tempranillo vines in the hills outside of Madrid, where the elevation gives a nice diurnal temperature swing and keeps the wine light on its feet. The 2016 version again comes in at fourteen percent octane and is perfectly balanced. At under fifteen dollars a bottle here in the US, this is an absolute steal! 2018-2035.
Issue #75 – May/June 2018